01 /18 /2001
  Lumajang - Bali
    S 08°37    E 115°13
  +38

5.30 am: this morning we get up at dawn. We are invited to a Hindu ceremony: the Cremation. 

Still asleep and 'floating', our minibus takes us to Lumajang, a 1 and a half hour drive. In the villages we cross, we are surprised by the incredible amount of vehicles, motorbikes and people. Along the road, little stands propose fruits and vegetables, and satés with different meats... We stop in a little stall to have a 'kopi' - the Balinese coffee. We discover that the Balinese, especially in little villages, are very early risers. They get up at 4 am, wash in streams, eat a plate of rice and go to work. In the evening, they go to bed at 7 pm! In Denpasar and Kuta, in the contrary, they have adapted to a more occidental rhythm.

The Cremation.

We arrive in the place of the ceremony at 8 o'clock. In front of us stand a huge and entirely decorated cart and a giant black ornamented bull. We are offered drinks and banana cakes. The guests arrive gradually: women dressed in colored sarongs and laced shirts, men wearing black and white squared sarongs and a white t-shirt with the face of the dead man, with his name and the date. Here, white is the color of death.

Under three temples play without stopping three traditional bands of 50 to 60 musicians, with no room left for silence.

On the main road stands a huge decorated coffin: M. Ketut Nadha, dead 2 weeks ago! As the Balinese's tradition wants, a big fest has been prepared. Powerful man, M. Kethut Nadha was ruling the main newspapers of Bali, and was also the owner of two national radios, and the Bali Travel News (which will publish an article on us on the 25th of January).

5 hours later and the body is transferred in a sarcophagus inside the Bull, with food, tissues and offerings. A short benediction and immediately the flames.

The ashes will be thrown in the sea.

Theo: I don't read newspapers anymore, I'm living my own news!
We have been quite shocked to learn that the Cremation is a part of packages proposed in travel agencies. Indeed, in the middle of the morning a many tourists come towards the Ceremony. At the same time appear from nowhere illicit vendors. The most sold object will be a Sarong, which has to be worn to attend the Cremation!

We'll go to a small island to realize your wish: survive in wild nature... The Journal will be back on the 20th.

Chat with the Team: Sunday at 13h00 GMT time

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